A NUMERICAL STUDY OF EXTREME WAVE RUNUP BEHAVIOR: SPECTRAL AND STATISTICAL ANALYSIS

Alexandre Nicolae Lerma (1) , Thomas Bulteau (1)

1 BRGM - Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM)

A numerical study using SWASH model is realized on a multi-barred beach in order to explore spectral and statistical behavior of wave runup caused by moderate to extreme offshore wave conditions. Numerical experiments based on bathymetric characteristics, wave climate and tidal level of the Aquitanian coast, are compared to collected field data from the bibliography and derivate parametric models. Correlations between runup and several environmental parameters are estimated and discussed and a hybrid model (based on observations and simulated results) is proposed. We analyse the longshore spatial variability of incident and infragravity swash heights and R2%, in order to identify hot spot of runup related to the near shore morphology. Depending on wave conditions and tidal level, local positive anomaly of R2% varies between 10 to 36 % and are in average 22% higher than longshore mean values at high tide.

Mots clés: hot spot of runup; swash energy spectra; extreme wave conditions; multi-barred beach; longshore variability; SWASH model

Domaines: Géomorphologie; Sciences de l'environnement; Interfaces continentales, environnement

Alexandre Nicolae Lerma, Thomas Bulteau. A NUMERICAL STUDY OF EXTREME WAVE RUNUP BEHAVIOR: SPECTRAL AND STATISTICAL ANALYSIS. Coastal Dynamics 2017, Jun 2017, Helsingør, Denmark. ⟨hal-01517707⟩