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Wave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions

Abstract : This study assessed the ability of the SWASH model to reproduce wave set-up and run-up on complex realistic 3D morphology during highly dissipative stormy conditions, based on the most energetic field data set reported in the bibliography (ECORS-Truc Vert’08 beach experiment). Several approaches (1D and 2D) and forcing methods (spectral and parametric) were applied. For the three days of high-energy conditions caused by the Johanna storm, wave set-up was accurately reproduced, with simulation performance in 1D and 2D at R² = 0.66, 0.81 respectively for all data considered; RMSE = 0.13 m, 0.08 m; bias = 0.06, -0.02. Run-up in the 1D configuration is significantly overestimated while in 2D, the reproduction of run-up using spectral forcing was very accurate with R² = 0.73; RMSE = 0.19; bias = 0.04, underlining the role of spectral frequency and directional spread to precisely reproduce the surf zone processes during a storm on a complex barred beach. The maximum estimated values for set-up, run-up and spatial variability of run-up are comparable with results from previous studies, even though significantly higher offshore wave conditions. These results support the hypothesis of a run-up saturation signature in dissipative contexts, mainly influenced by extreme offshore wave conditions.
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Soumis le : vendredi 15 janvier 2016 - 10:45:11
Dernière modification le : mercredi 3 août 2022 - 04:03:23





Alexandre Nicolae Lerma, Rodrigo Pedreros, Nadia Senechal. Wave Set-up and Run-up Variability on a Complex Barred Beach During Highly Dissipative Storm Conditions. Journal of Coastal Research, Coastal Education and Research Foundation, 2016, Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). (No. 75), pp.882-886. ⟨10.2112/SI75-177.1⟩. ⟨hal-01256646⟩



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