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On the Predictability of Mid-term Cross-shore Profile Evolution

Abstract : The aim of the present study is to analyse the mid-term beach profile evolution, considering the hypothesis that the alongshore processes can be neglected for the prediction of the mean profile evolution. To this end, a process-based model for the evolution of the cross-shore profile has been used. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, accounting for the effects of wave skewness and asymmetry on sediment transport. Offshore waves and tides conditions and bathymetric profiles measured at the FRF-USACE Duck are used to simulate a mid-term (72 days) onshore sandbar migration event. The model results agree with observed onshore movement and growth of the sandbar due to the inclusion of the intra-wave oscillatory flow with the skewness and asymmetry effects. The best predictions belongs to the averaging of the modelled evolution of individual cross-shore profiles that is better than the evolution of the mean cross-shore profile takes into account the alongshore variability of the cross-shore profiles. These two methods result on better predictions than the individual profiles during the entire event.
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Contributeur : Déborah Idier Connectez-vous pour contacter le contributeur
Soumis le : mardi 7 mai 2013 - 17:40:00
Dernière modification le : mercredi 3 août 2022 - 04:02:29




Angels Fernandez Morà, Daniel Calvete, Albert Falqués, Francesca Ribas, Déborah Idier. On the Predictability of Mid-term Cross-shore Profile Evolution. Journal of Coastal Research, Coastal Education and Research Foundation, 2013, Special Issue N°65, pp.476-481. ⟨10.2112/SI65-081.1⟩. ⟨hal-00821186⟩



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