Morphodynamic evolution of nearshore bars in response to winter storms (Lido de Sète, NW Mediterranean)

Mathieu Gervais 1 Yann Balouin 1 Jérôme Thiebot 1 R. Certain 2 Rémi Belon 1 Rodrigo Pedreros 1 Nicolas Robin 2 Serge Berné 2
1 BRGM - Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM)
2 IMAGES-Espace DEV - Institut de Modélisation et d'Analyses en géo-environnement et santé - Espace Développement
UMR 228 Espace-Dev, Espace pour le développement
Abstract : This work aims to investigate the processes responsible for the morphodynamics of barred beach during storm events. The contribution compares the response of 2 nearshore bars during storm events at a microtidal double barred beach of the Gulf of Lions, NW Mediterranean Sea (France). Storm-specific experiments were undertaken to assess the morphological evolution of the shoreface. The initial and resulting morphologies are analysed together with wave parameters offshore and water level measurements. Current circulation on the bar system is simulated with MARS-SWAN numerical model. Both storm events presented almost similar hydrodynamic characteristics, and a pre-storm morphology characterised by crescentic bar patterns. However, the resulting morphological evolution was very contrasted. In first case, the bay of the well formed, small-size, crescentic bar was disrupted. In second case the longer crescentic pattern evolve to a more ample and skewed bar morphology. Model simulations indicate that the small size rhythmic crescentic bar patterns would be more able to generate rip circulation cells than the larger crescents patterns, even if a slight change in wave incidence is observed during one of the events. On this specific dataset, our analysis indicates that the nearshore hydrodynamics at the peak of the storm is driven mostly by the pre-storm morphology that is then responsible of the morphological response during the storm.
Keywords : storm nearshore bar morphodynamic rip current
Type de document :
Article dans une revue
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https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00671348
Contributeur : Marielle Arregros <>
Soumis le : vendredi 17 février 2012 - 11:35:25
Dernière modification le : vendredi 7 juin 2019 - 10:24:19

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  • HAL Id : hal-00671348, version 1

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BRGM | DYNALIT | AGROPOLIS | GUYANE | MIPS | UNIV-MONTPELLIER | ESPACE-DEV | UNIV-AG | UNIV-AVIGNON | UNIV-PERP

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Mathieu Gervais, Yann Balouin, Jérôme Thiebot, R. Certain, Rémi Belon, et al.. Morphodynamic evolution of nearshore bars in response to winter storms (Lido de Sète, NW Mediterranean). Journal of Coastal Research, Coastal Education and Research Foundation, 2011, SI 64, pp.1855-1860. ⟨hal-00671348⟩

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